PORTUGUESE FOOD.

This little monograph is intended for first time visitors to Portugal who may not be familiar with its cuisine. Because of the history of the country, there have been many external influences on the everyday food of the nation. Moorish influences abound, especially in deserts, cakes and pastries, and the traditional cooking pot (Cataplana) is said to have been introduced by the Moors. Further additions to the repertoire came from the Portuguese voyages of exploration and later colonial acquisitions in Africa, India, the Far East and the New World. Salt cod (Bacalhau) was probably introduced to fulfil the need to victual the caravelas of the navigadores during these voyages. The food itself is generally delicious, simple and unsophisticated, usually served in huge helpings on cold plates - unpretentious peasant food at its best, so don't expect much in the way of haute cuisine. Even visitors who dislike "foreign food" wil be able to find dishes to suit even the most conservative tastes in most restaurants, and many restaurants run by expats specialise in British dishes.

Most of the ingredients for Portuguese cooking are produced in the country. Try to schedule a visit to the municipal market (Mercado) in Tavira to check out the wide range of fruit, vegetables, meat and fish available, all delivered fresh daily. Algarvian cuisine is probably most famous for its fish and seafood, which is hardly surprising considering the variety and freshness of the raw materials. Tuna, the "beef of the sea" appears on most menus, as do sardines and hake. These are the most common fish dishes, but look out for local sole, conger, skate, sea bass, gilthead bream and grouper (Cherne) and for the speciality of this part of the coast - octopus, which is equally delicious. Also available is a wide variety of shellfish, usually caught locally, ranging from expensive lobster to cockles and a huge selection of prawns from all over the world. If you do order lobster or crab, make 100% certain it is the one you selected from the tank and not the one that has been displayed for a couple of days in the window, or one out of the freezer. If necessary, follow it into the kitchen. It would be impossible to say anything about Portuguese fish dishes without mentioning bacalhau (dried salted codfish) This may even be considered as the Portuguese national dish and they are said to have more ways of preparing it than there are days in the year. Although not to everyone's taste, you are sure to find at least one variant that you enjoy.

It's not all about fish though! Local beef can be a bit patchy, but excellent Argentinian and Brasilian cuts are widely available. The lamb is generally of good quality - tender and full of flavour as is the goat which appears on some menus. To my mind, the best meat dishes are made fron local pork from pigs fattened out of doors in the Alentejo. This has so much more flavour than the rather insipid pork we are used to in the UK. If available, try the cuts "Pluma" or "Secretos" - you are in for a treat! Chicken Piri Piri is a very popular dish with locals and visitors alike and is at its best in a specialist churrasceria. Another local favourite is rabbit, but it is not widely available in restaurants. You may find it as a dish of the day in smaller restaurants or snack bars. There is not much game to be had on the coast, but it does appear on menus in the restaurants in the hill villages in season. As far as cured meats go, Portuguese chouriços are a bit of a let down if you are used to salamis etc. from other parts of Europe. Usually smoked, they are very coarsely cut and seem to contain all the offcuts. The local black pudding (morcela) however is not too bad, and fresh sausages are excellent. Presunto is the Portuguese cured ham which, when finely sliced, compares favourably with the Spanish jamon serrano.

Cakes and pastries are wholesome and delicious, but not as refined or as well presented as those you may find in the patisseries of France or Italy, or even in neighbouring Spain for that matter. I won't elaborate on the desserts (which rely heavily on eggs and local fruit and nuts) except to say that the helpings are usually huge. You will have to experience these for yourselves. It is not unusual in a restaurant to share a dessert with your partner. Indeed, portions are generally so large that many people share the whole meal, one between two or two between three. This is seen as quite normal, so don't be afraid to ask.

Some local speciality dishes.

Açorda de Mariscos.

This is usually a thick soup made of bread and seafood, but can be more like a risotto. It is delicious, but very filling, and is served in large helpings. So if you don't have a big appetite, don't order this as a starter.

Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato.

Clams simmered with garlic, coriander and lemon juice (sometimes white wine) Don't be fooled by this. Bulhão sounds rather like "bouillon" and pato is Portuguese for duck, but it has no connection to duck soup. Bulhão Pato was a Potrtuguese poet

Caldeirada.

A seafood stew rather like the Spanish zarzuela, but usually contains potatoes. A very variable recipe which will contain whatever seafood is available fresh at the time.

Cataplana.

Anything cooked in this utensil (a pot like two shallow copper basins hinged together which seals when closed to allow the contents to cook in their own steam) will be so described. Most common are seafood cataplanas, but look out for pork "Alentejo" (pork loin cooked with clams) a local favourite.

Cozida à Portuguesa.

This hearty stew typifies the everyday food of the ordinary people. It contains various fresh and cured meats and sausages boiled with vegetables and usually served with rice. This is the dish for the short winter months when there is a nip in the air.

Finally, a few words about wine. You will be surprised by the quality, variety and price of Portuguese wine. Although fine wines are readily available, table wines and restaurant house wines are really good value for money and stand up well to other European and even New World wines. You can buy a litre of really drinkable single estate wine in a cardboard box for under one euro.Wine buffs may like to try to search out Colares wine from the pre-phylloxera Ramisco grape variety. If you find some, please let me know!

Why not try before you go?

Here is my recipe for a delicious quick and easy fish dish you may find in some restaurants. The Portuguese do not normally skin their skate before cooking it, and this makes the juice a bit more glutinous, but British skinned skate does equally well. The Portuguese also do not use coriander in this dish, but I find it improves the flavour.These quantities are sufficient for two.

Raia Alinha (Skate with Garlic)

Ingredients.

One large or two small skate wings.
Four medium sized firm potatoes.
Six cloves of garlic finely sliced.
Four tbsps. of olive oil.
One tbspn.each of chopped parsley and chopped coriander.
Sea salt.

Method.

If neccessary, cut the fish into reasonably sized serving portions.
Peel the potatoes and cut them in half lengthways. Put them in a wide bottomed pan or caserole with a lid together with half the oil, garlic, parsley and coriander. Just cover them with water, add some salt, bring to the boil and simmer until they are nearly cooked through.
Lay the fish in a single layer on top of the potatoes. Sprinkle over the rest of the oil, garlic, parsley, coriander and a little more salt. Replace the lid on the pan and continue to simmer until the fish and potatoes are just cooked through. (This does not take very long, so be careful not to overcook) Serve the fish and potatoes with some of the juice remaining in the pan.
I find green beans a good accompaniment to this dish. Bom apetite!

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