This is the restaurant on the Quinta Velha complex.Now re-opened under new management. Louis and Debbie have left and the place has been completely re-vamped with a new kitchen and tasteful decor. The food (quite expensive)is supposed to have a French influence although the chefs are British, but claim to be French trained. We attended the opening night and heard many complaints, chiefly about slow service and undercooked chicken. However, the staff are enthusiastic and seem keen to succeed so this may be a case of Terminal 5 syndrome. We'll give it another try on our next visit and expect to find it much improved.

(2) EUROPA.

A super, very reasonably priced restaurant, with a good selection of fresh fish and other Portuguese and international dishes. Unusually, the chef will prepare his cataplana for one person. You are always assured of a warm welcome from the owner. who lives at Quinta Velha with his English wife. One of our favourites.

(3) ESMERELDA'S.

This is the old Piano Bar, due to re-open shortly as "Esmerelda's" (Quasimodo's is next door) an Irish Bar. We hope this will be a proper traditional Irish bar, and not part of the Filthy O'Nasty franchise which seems to be spreading across Europe.Fans of the old Piano Bar will be glad to know that Ana and Carlos are hoping to open a new restaurant near Nora Velha.

(4) A GRELHA.

Closed for refurbishment at the moment. When it re-opens, do not expect to see the lovely Lisa back in the team.

(5) DUNAS.

A pleasant little snack bar with a limited meals service. Good, unusual petiscos served from time to time. The coffee and cakes are particularly good and the bifanas excellent. Beware of the wine, which is overpriced compared with other similar places.

(6) JERÓNIMOS.

We tried this after a tip off from one of our guests. An excellent little place, cosy in winter, well run and reasonably priced, but as it's so small, either book a table or go early. If you like fish, try the "Raia Alhada" (Skate cooked with potatoes, garlic and herbs) They don't feature this (or the octopus dishes) on the English menu because they think it will not appeal to the British palate. Highly recommended.(Jul 2007. Now refurbished, food still as good. A good selection of eel dishes)

(7) IDEAL.

Serves some of the best grilled meat and fish to be found locally. Because it is so popular with the locals, it is often difficult to get a table during the season.Their signature dish is a seafood soup served in a hollowed out small loaf of bread, which is regularly ordered by locals and visitors. Octopus dishes are particularly good here. Recommended.

(8) CABANAS BRASSERIE.

Fans of the old Casa Algarvia will be pleased to know that Gill and Fernando have now moved into their new premises in Quinta de Gomeira, and that standards of service and cuisine have been maintained. Skate fried in batter is now available by special order. Added bonuses are warm plates (unusual) and no television.

(9) A TASQUINHA.

A friendly little local bar which serves food at lunchtime (two or three dishes of the day plus petiscos {mainly seafood, like Spanish tapas}) Cheap and cheerful and very popular with local work men for lunch. A good place to linger over a bottle of wine and a plate of prawns. Closed Sundays.

(10) CLUBE RECREATIVO CABANENSE (C.R.C)

This is the local social club, but it also welcomes visitors (membership is unnecessary, but non-members should not use the games facilities) Huge helpings of the dish of the day are served at midday. Fill up your kids here, but only if they like genuine Portuguese food. To find the entrance, go into the courtyard and up the steps to the bar/restaurant where you can get lovely views over the lagoon and island. A good selection of local drinks (sangria, caipirinha etc,) cheaper than most places on the front.(May 2006: Since the addition of two new pool tables in the dining/bar area, much of the ambience has been lost, although there has been no change in food and drink quality. There is also a danger of injury due to miscued balls leaving the pool tables)(Nov 2006, currently closed due to local politics)(Mar 2007, now re-opened under new management. Not currently open for lunch during the week. Things may improve during the season)

(11) A FONTE

Much improved in its standards of service from when it first opened (they no longer try to push you to take expensive starters) this is a very pleasant place to eat with good food and friendly staff. They serve good bacalhau, and seafood soup inside a hollowed out roll (also served loose at a lower price)
Update. This year (2005) they were voted best restaurant in the village by the Câmera. On one visit we found the lamb cutlets excellent, but the next time they were mainly bone and barely cooked.This was a big disappointment and was exacerbated by the over effusiveness of the Brazilian waiter.

(12) MARISCOS & PETISCOS

A more upmarket restaurant with excellent service, specialising, as its name suggests, in seafood. You can order almost anything from the menu with complete confidence, although their seafood platter, while generous in quantity, tends to rely too heavily on whelks and murex. The Argentinian beef served here is the best I have found in the village. Excellent "cover" dishes.

(13) GRELHA PEIXE

Our current favourite. On a recent visit, we had arguably the best pork I have ever tasted. The cut is called "secretos" and consists of the lean parts filleted from the belly of the black-footed pig. These pigs are specially fattened in the Alentejo or in the Jabugo area of Spain. You may also see it on menus as porco preto, black pork, pata negra or porco Iberico. They also serve here as part of the cover, a sheep's milk cheese called "Herdade dos Esquerdos". This is like a very mild Camembert, and is just as good as anything that comes out of France. Very highly recommended.

(14) O PEDRO

The first time we tried this place we didn't like it very much. I think we must have caught them on a bad night, as this time the food and service were both excellent. Try the pork secretos or the delicious hake fillets fried in a herby batter.

(15) O MONTEIRO

A very pleasant restaurant, presided over by a large lady with a beautiful smile for all her customers. The grilled fish is always good, especially the sole and the service can't be faulted. It can be rather cold in winter as the kitchen extractor fans are so powerful they have to keep the door open to prevent the glass front from being sucked in.

(16) BAR COLUMBÓFILIO

On your way back to the house after a convivial evening in the village, you may want to stop off for a nightcap at this friendly little bar to fortify yourself for the walk back. It is the HQ of the local pigeon club or GCC (Grupo Columbófilo Cabanense) but welcomes anyone who is thirsty. During the day, you can sit outside at the back and watch the regulars playing petanca (boule)

(17) O PRINCIPE

This is the restaurant of the Pedras da Rainha complex across the road. Prices are quite high, but the food is generally good. It also has occasional dinner dances and other convivial evenings which are quite pleasant. Keep an eye on the notice board in Pedras reception for details. Currently featuring fado evenings on Wednesday nights - great value at 25€ including dinner and wine.

(18) O ESCALHO

A brand new reasonably priced bar/restaurant/snack bar which has recently opened at the bottom of Quinta de Gomeira. It's a very friendly family run place, child friendly and with a good range of sandwiches, snacks and dishes of the day. Very popular with both locals and visitors it has a super atmosphere and is highly recommended Recommended dishes of the day are fried rabbit (coelho frito) skate with garlic (raia alhada) and the typical Portuguese boiled dinner (cozido português) Also sometimes available are dried octopus eggs to nibble with your beer. Closed Thursdays.

(19) LITTLE ORANGE

This cosy little restaurant is run by an ex-navy chef and his family and serves English type food and some Portuguese dishes. The full English breakfast served here is famous throughout the village for its quantity, quality and price. What I particularly like is the extra gravy served separately. It's one of only two restaurants here that serve proper gravy. The first time we ate here we were disappointed at the standard of the pastry on the steak and kidney pie (It would have been familiar to all ex-matelots) but they have more than redeemed themselves since and we have no hesitation in recommending its food, ambience or service.

(20) MOHO.

This is the new name for the pool bar on Quinta Velha.Now run by a group of German lads and advertised as "The baddest bar in town" As they get most of their custom from within the complex, I am not sure this is how they should be representing themselves. It's not very child friendly, although they do an acceptable all day continental breakfast. No other food is available.

(21) THE JOLLY SAILOR.

Now under new management (again) this place is a welcome addition to the complex. Although billed as a snack bar, there usually a couple of specials in the evening. Eddie and Elsa seem determined to make a go of the place and you are assured of a warm welcome. Pool, darts and table football are available in the games room. We expect this place to be very popular in the season, so it might be as well to book your table. Closed Tuesdays.

If you want to make any comments, or recommend somewhere for inclusion, please E-Mail us at:

arthur@tinkera.fsnet.co.uk